common fit problems
1. Collar does not stand up when unbuttoned:
The problem: Does your shirt collar refuse to stand straight up when left unbuttoned?
Make sure that the back of the collar aligns with the nape of your neck for support. This has a lot to do with your posture - if your neck bends slightly forward and your shoulders slide back, we recommend the neck forward adjustment. This typically involves adding an extra inch to the collar, which helps move the collar to the front of your chest and shoulders, and aligns it with your neck.
Raise the placement of the top button to gauge how wide the collar spread is when left unbuttoned.
Ensure that the shoulder slope, chest size, and yoke width are all applied correctly. A tight upper chest or a faulty shoulder slope can have adverse effects on the way your collar sits on your neck.
Try and opt for our Polo button-down collar. This allows you to fasten the collar points on to your shirt, but the collar stands straight up even when the top button is left undone.
Also, try and opt for a Regular placket, which lends support to the collar. Avoid French plackets, as they could lead to slouchy collars.
2. Placket bumps out just below the collar:
The problem: There's a gap between the top and second button of your shirt, causing the placket to bump out?
This generally happens when the second button is placed too low. So, we raise the top button by 1/2" to reduce the gap between the collar and the top button. This will help ease out the bump.
Wash and press the shirt, because sometimes the bulge is due to the placement of the packaging pins. It helps straighten out any tension of the threads or fusing of the placket. A wash or two will reduce this stress.
Widen the shoulder width a little. A narrow or smaller shoulder width can cause the end of the shoulders to pull the shirt out on the sides, causing the placket to bump out weirdly.
Widen the width of the chest. A narrow chest can again, lead to stress along the placket. Increasing the width can drastically change the way the placket sits on your body.
3. Lines running from armpits to back of collar:
The problem: Too many crease lines going from your armpits to the back of your collar?
Most noticeable when a shirt is buttoned all the way up, these crease lines running from the armpits to the back of the collar occur because of a sloping shoulder. To reduce these lines, you might want to consider revisiting your shoulder slope measurements. The shoulder slope is of paramount importance to the way your shirt drapes around your chest, and an increase in this measurement, helps reduce the creasing on your shirt. Please be careful to note a sloping shoulder in the series of FitSmart questions so our pattern can account for the same.
4. Dress shirt is too tight at the stomach:
The problem: Your shirt feels too tight, almost as if the button around the area will snap open while sitting?
The only reason this could be happening is because your waist measurements aren't right. An increase in the mid section area helps reduce any tightness around the belly, as the extra fabric eases out the stress. Try adding 1'’ to the waist which will increase the overall mid section circumference by 1'', ensuring your shirt doesn't feel too tight when sitting.
5. Tightness around the back when reaching forward:
The problem: Does your shirt feel particularly tight around the back, when moving forward, restricting your movement?
Try adding pleats (either box or side) at the back. This helps you move forward comfortably, without making your shirt look bulky in the front.
Widening the chest will give you more room for movement, both forward and backwards.
Widening the bicep measurement could help alleviate any stress around the upper arm, allowing for easier movement when reaching forward or backwards.
6. Shirt bumps up behind the back of the collar:
The problem: When buttoned up fully, the fabric just below the collar bumps up and covers a little bit of the collar?
This is usually due to posture. We reduce the height of the shoulder yoke based on the size of the bump.
Widen the shoulder width. A narrow shoulder width could be the sole factor contributing to the stress around the back.
7. Ripping through the elbows of the shirt:
The problem: Do you tend to have rips/ holes around your elbow?
Increase the sleeve length. A shorter sleeve could lead to tension around the elbow area when bent.
Widen the bicep, as this will let you move your arms freely, avoiding any stress around the elbows.
8. Pulling Across the Upper Chest:
The problem: Notice too much pulling around the upper chest and top button?
Increasing the chest and shoulder width is one of the most obvious solutions here. This allows for more room and lets the shirt drape well around the chest area. In some cases, if you have incorrectly opted for a sloping shoulder, this gap may be the result. Revert to a non-sloping shoulder to get rid of the issue.
9. Tightness around the armpits:
The problem: Does your shirt have pulling lines at the front or back running from the back of the collar to the bottom of your armpits?
Increase the biceps, as this will lead to an increase in the armhole circumference. A roomier armhole will reduce the tightness around the armpits. A combination of an increase in chest and biceps measurements is suggested in the case of extreme tightness.
Check for a sloping shoulder. Selecting a sloping shoulder will lead to a dropped armhole which will relieve the tightness.
10. Extra fabric around the stomach or lower back:
The problem: Too much excess fabric around your mid section making your shirt bunch around the waist?
In cases where the torso is v-shaped, excess fabric may gather around the mid section, both in the front and at the back. The best way to resolve this issue is by adding darts to your shirt. If you feel that you'd want to further remove some excess fabric from the curve of your lower back, try reducing the waist by 1/2'' and add darts to your shirt.